On these stony slopes, some winegrowers of the Condrieu appellation offer the quintessence of viognier. Focus on two of them: François Dumas and Clos de la Bonnette.
Forty kilometres south of Lyon, on the right bank of the Rhône, this acrobatic vineyard clings to granite cliffs built with terraces and low walls holding back the earth. A terroir as fascinating as the aromas that emanate from the unique white Grape variety grown in the appellation: viognier. Even if it is said to be complex and delicate, the viognier of this region offers pale-coloured wines which, at first glance, give no hint of such an aromatic explosion (apricot, peach) and which are pleasant when making the most of the Mediterranean heat and sunshine! Spread over 3 departments (Rhône, Loire and Ardèche), the 130 ha vineyard of the appellation has been cultivated since the Roman era. For the anecdote, the emperor Domitian had this plant uprooted in 92 AD, guilty according to him of weakening the armies with its intoxicating perfumes. Conversely, around 280, Probus had it cultivated again, declaring that it made men better. Precisely, here are wines and winegrowers who make people better...
ENGLISH DUMAS
In 2002, François Dumas returned to his native village of Véranne (42), south of Condrieu, in the Pilat region, and set up his own business. Before that, he went through the "case étude", which he had learned the ropes with many winegrowers, including Trapet (Gevrey - Burgundy), Cuilleron and Jean-Louis Chave (Hermitage). He perfected the practical side but François Dumas understands above all where he wants to go with his wines!
Young winemaker, by his installation, François knows that quality requires a lot of hard work in the vineyards. He is fortunate to have a few acres of his own, to be leased out to others and to plant a few plants in mass selection (with the help of the leading nurseryman of the moment, Lilian Berillon). To date, he works almost 2 ha with an organic certification in progress. Not much surface area but he is all alone and seems to want to remain so for the moment, having "a lot of trouble delegating" as he likes to say himself.
Small production
Small production, a few bottlings and at least 4 vintages in vin de Pays or Vin de France since 2011 on Gamay and Syrah. Then come Saint-Joseph and Condrieu since 2013. The charm of this last cuvée is immediately apparent: finesse, freshness and length. It's magical! A Condrieu 2015 with "the face at the right place"! Obviously the Viognier remains Viognier, and the primary aromas are present but without dominating or overwhelming. The ageing is clean, neat and leaves room for the texture and minerality to express themselves. On the nose as well as on the palate, these fine aromas of yellow stone fruits, aniseed (cardamom seed), fresh ginger and spices are more pronounced on the finish. Round on the palate without going overboard. Extremely fine, delicate and fresh. What a pleasure! To know more about it >>
